Post by hemidaytona426 on Apr 9, 2004 0:11:26 GMT -5
Difficulty: Easy build, should have experience with putty and fine sanding.
Material Required: .040”thick sheet styrene, putty, knife, ruler, pencil, sandpaper
First and the very most important step in building your own hood scoop is plan, I can not emphasize this step enough. Cowl induction works by taking the air that slows at the windshield. So your back of the scoop should be relatively close to the windshield and sloped roughly to the same angle. Start by tracing the outline of the hood you wish to add a scoop to. Find the front center and rear center and draw a line between the two. Now draw out the length and width for the type you would like to build. We will be building a hood for a 1971 Cuda here so I have elected to run the scoop the entire length of the hood. Of course other cars and trucks will vary and that's where your pre-planning comes into play.
Using a straight edge and your x-acto knife carefully cut the pattern out that you have designed, Good scissors will do the trick also . Now is a good time to add another important tip, Make all your cuts as straight as possible, by doing this you will save yourself much work in the following steps.
Now that you have your top section cut out roll the front over something the size of the bend that you would like. This creates the slope at the front of the cowl to clear the induction system you are using on your engine. The heat of your fingers is plenty to help you in this step, you don't need to be to precise here.
If you like you can add another small bend at the backend. Now place your top section centered on the hood and decide what height you want to build, do this by measuring at the back, If you know what type induction you are using, now is the time to establish your clearance. Be careful at this step as it is easy to go to high and in that case you will be way out of scale.
Take your top section back to the sheet styrene with your measurement and using a straight side of the sheet, stand the top section on its side and transfer a line to the sheet by carefully tracing the bottom side of the top piece, make this line a little longer on the back, just to be safe, You may find it easer to cut with scissors, you will find the styrene will tend to curl, don't worry, once removed from the sheet it is easy to straighten again by using the heat from your fingers.
Take your two sides and do some test fitting now and make any adjustments . Here is another important tip, make sure your side pieces fit snug to the top piece, you want to do as little putty filling as possible, styrene is very forgiving in that it will sand down nice to give you a tight seal, the least amount of putty and sanding you can do will reward you in the long run .Once you are happy with the fit, proceed to glue them to your top section, you should be looking like this after this step.
The sanding begins, using 400 dry grit, start sanding the top sections sides to conform with the sides you have added, you can now start test fitting the cowl to your hood to assess how well you have trimmed the side sections, make adjustments and keep checking your work, remember that it is easer to remove material then to have to add it. Also important is to not sand off your pencil line that you drew for your center line.
Once you have the cowl sanded out smooth, let’s move on to the hood . Tack a piece of stru to the underside of the hood exactly dead center. .This will be very valuable in the following steps, At this time you will be adding tape for a number of reasons, First, this will prevent you from getting putty in places where you don't really need it, second, the tape will help you from sanding thru details, like on this hood there are molded in hood pins.
.
By using the center line that you had drawn on the cowl, mount the cowl to the hood and line up your cowl center lines with the guide that you tacked to the underside of the hood . Once your glue has set up you can either leave as is to look like a bolted on cowl or you can add putty to give it the molded one piece hood look, which is what we will do here, Apply sparingly amounts of putty along the joint line, It is important to use as little as possible to make your work that much easer.
For dramatic effect you may add a raised line down the center of the cowl now, or you can leave it smooth, it’s your choice, some hoods will look good with it, some without it .Use whatever you like for this, you may find the right size in your parts box or you can buy styrene in varies diameters, i make mine from stretched sprue, I then add putty along both sides of the piece and sand smooth. Now is the time to proceed sanding the cowl. .I go directly to 1000 grit wet and sand till I have the look that I want, Wash the hood and inspect, if you're looking good, proceed to 2000 grit and just keep sanding until you're happy.
Remove the tape and wet sand the rest of the hood in preparation to primer. There are other tutorials on www.briansmodelcars.com in regards to primer prep and painting so I will skip all that, This picture shows by being very careful in your building steps and a very diligent sanding procedure, I have only a few spots to attend to. After priming, I found some defects, Add more putty and keep wet sanding till your happy. You can cut out the underside once you have your engine in place, only remove as much as you have to . The hood will retain more strength with less taken out.
Now before you start your own cowl induction hood, always remember, plan your work and take your time, if you apply both of those attitudes you too can build hoods that will be a super addition to your muscle car project.
Thanks for looking and have fun.
I borrowed this from brians model cars
Material Required: .040”thick sheet styrene, putty, knife, ruler, pencil, sandpaper
First and the very most important step in building your own hood scoop is plan, I can not emphasize this step enough. Cowl induction works by taking the air that slows at the windshield. So your back of the scoop should be relatively close to the windshield and sloped roughly to the same angle. Start by tracing the outline of the hood you wish to add a scoop to. Find the front center and rear center and draw a line between the two. Now draw out the length and width for the type you would like to build. We will be building a hood for a 1971 Cuda here so I have elected to run the scoop the entire length of the hood. Of course other cars and trucks will vary and that's where your pre-planning comes into play.
Using a straight edge and your x-acto knife carefully cut the pattern out that you have designed, Good scissors will do the trick also . Now is a good time to add another important tip, Make all your cuts as straight as possible, by doing this you will save yourself much work in the following steps.
Now that you have your top section cut out roll the front over something the size of the bend that you would like. This creates the slope at the front of the cowl to clear the induction system you are using on your engine. The heat of your fingers is plenty to help you in this step, you don't need to be to precise here.
If you like you can add another small bend at the backend. Now place your top section centered on the hood and decide what height you want to build, do this by measuring at the back, If you know what type induction you are using, now is the time to establish your clearance. Be careful at this step as it is easy to go to high and in that case you will be way out of scale.
Take your top section back to the sheet styrene with your measurement and using a straight side of the sheet, stand the top section on its side and transfer a line to the sheet by carefully tracing the bottom side of the top piece, make this line a little longer on the back, just to be safe, You may find it easer to cut with scissors, you will find the styrene will tend to curl, don't worry, once removed from the sheet it is easy to straighten again by using the heat from your fingers.
Take your two sides and do some test fitting now and make any adjustments . Here is another important tip, make sure your side pieces fit snug to the top piece, you want to do as little putty filling as possible, styrene is very forgiving in that it will sand down nice to give you a tight seal, the least amount of putty and sanding you can do will reward you in the long run .Once you are happy with the fit, proceed to glue them to your top section, you should be looking like this after this step.
The sanding begins, using 400 dry grit, start sanding the top sections sides to conform with the sides you have added, you can now start test fitting the cowl to your hood to assess how well you have trimmed the side sections, make adjustments and keep checking your work, remember that it is easer to remove material then to have to add it. Also important is to not sand off your pencil line that you drew for your center line.
Once you have the cowl sanded out smooth, let’s move on to the hood . Tack a piece of stru to the underside of the hood exactly dead center. .This will be very valuable in the following steps, At this time you will be adding tape for a number of reasons, First, this will prevent you from getting putty in places where you don't really need it, second, the tape will help you from sanding thru details, like on this hood there are molded in hood pins.
.
By using the center line that you had drawn on the cowl, mount the cowl to the hood and line up your cowl center lines with the guide that you tacked to the underside of the hood . Once your glue has set up you can either leave as is to look like a bolted on cowl or you can add putty to give it the molded one piece hood look, which is what we will do here, Apply sparingly amounts of putty along the joint line, It is important to use as little as possible to make your work that much easer.
For dramatic effect you may add a raised line down the center of the cowl now, or you can leave it smooth, it’s your choice, some hoods will look good with it, some without it .Use whatever you like for this, you may find the right size in your parts box or you can buy styrene in varies diameters, i make mine from stretched sprue, I then add putty along both sides of the piece and sand smooth. Now is the time to proceed sanding the cowl. .I go directly to 1000 grit wet and sand till I have the look that I want, Wash the hood and inspect, if you're looking good, proceed to 2000 grit and just keep sanding until you're happy.
Remove the tape and wet sand the rest of the hood in preparation to primer. There are other tutorials on www.briansmodelcars.com in regards to primer prep and painting so I will skip all that, This picture shows by being very careful in your building steps and a very diligent sanding procedure, I have only a few spots to attend to. After priming, I found some defects, Add more putty and keep wet sanding till your happy. You can cut out the underside once you have your engine in place, only remove as much as you have to . The hood will retain more strength with less taken out.
Now before you start your own cowl induction hood, always remember, plan your work and take your time, if you apply both of those attitudes you too can build hoods that will be a super addition to your muscle car project.
Thanks for looking and have fun.
I borrowed this from brians model cars
It looks good i was gonna use a cowl hood on my pro mod daytona but cowls are for chevys so i scratched that idea and ditched the hood
